Block #4 - Pattern #3
Can you believe that we are onto the last seams of block 4.
I am back teaching - and it is so wonderful to see all my "students' again.
Pattern #3
Seam that joins piece #5 to pieces #1 and #2
Threads used:
Perle #8
Nymo beading thread
Small beads and sequins
Stitches used:
Straight stitch
Colonial knot
Single bead stitch
Lazy daisy
Bullion knot
1. The next stitch is a variation of the buttonhole pinwheel. I wanted a much cleaner look on this very small block, the stab stitch version is what I used.
Simply create the spokes of a half wheel with a Perle #8 and a straight stitch. It is best to have all the stitches coming INTO the one point at the base of the pinwheel than coming OUT of the one point. I hope this makes sense. By using this technique the tension of the previous straight stitch will not be compromised.
Straight stitch - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 73
2. To complete the little pinwheel add straight stitches connecting the spokes.
Straight stitch - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 73
Continue along the seam adding as many pinwheels as needs be.
3. For a little bit of bling secure small sequins at the base of the pinwheels.
Beaded sequin - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 83
4. Chubby little colonial knots finish off the pinwheels. French knots or beads will work too.
Colonial knot -FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 71
5. To create the little bushes, stitch a few straight stitches as seen on the left. Then add bullion knots and lazy daisy leaves to complete.
Bullion knots are all the about the relationship between the size of the Milliner's needle and the thread being used. If the needle is too small the bullion knots will be distorted as needle is pulled through the wraps. If the needle is too big the wraps will be too lose. Also, an "over wrapped" bullion knot is so much more attractive than a bullion with too few wraps. Just relax and they will work out just fine.................
For the bullion knots on this seam I have deliberately chosen a very loosely twisted silk thread as I wanted my bullion knots to be little wonky and "unformed".
Bullion knots - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 70
Straight stitch - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 73
Lazy daisy - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 72
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Piece #5
Threads used:
Nymo beading thread
7mm silk ribbon
Perle #16 or two strands of DMC
Rice pearl and small bead
Stitches used:
Single bead stitch
Loop stitch
Ribbon stitch
Straight stitch
****** Before we move on to create a little butterfly you will notice that I have added small little lazy daisy leaves to the fly stitch seam treatment.******
1. Attach the beads to piece #5. If you do not have suitable beads follow the instructions on page 87 of FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING to make the little body and head.
Single bead stitch - Foolproof crazy Quilting - page 84
2. On one side of the little butterfly body body, near the head, make a small loop stitch in 7mm silk ribbon.
Loop stitch - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 77
3. A smidge under the loop stitch make a ribbon stitch (make sure you don't go through the ribbon on the back of your work!!!!!!!!)
Ribbon stitch - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 77
4. Complete the butterfly by adding straight stitches and small beads - little antennae!
Scatter a few straight stitch seed thingies around the butterfly in Perle #16 or two strands of stranded cotton
Single bead stitch -FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 84
Straight stitch - .FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 73
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Piece # 2
Threads used;
Gold metallic thread
Stitches used:
Straight stitch
I will be honest, creating a neat looking spider web is not easy. But I am hoping by giving you a few tips it will help with the process.
I do not like my spiderwebs fully formed - I think that they can become very overpowering and take center stage - which in real life they do not! I prefer them to be subtle and delicate.
Tips -
*I add my spiderwebs to my block when my block is complete - this will help in the spiderweb not being distorted by me working on the seams around it.
*Each spoke of the spiderweb MUST be ended off with a strong knot. That means there is a knot at the beginning and end of each spoke.
* The tension of each spoke must be tight - so it is best to work webs in a hoop.
* Let's recap - make a big knot at the end of your threads and pull this knot tight (metallic threads don't like knots). Then make a straight stitch and create tension in the thread. On the back of the work ( with the tension still tight) form a big firm knot in the fabric. Cut the thread and repeat for each spoke.
Then complete the spiderweb as shown in my book - Round Spider web - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 88
*Metallic thread is a difficult thread to work with. There are many on the market but my favorite is "Au Papillon" - it a polyester and spun rayon thread - that means it is very strong which we need for spiderwebs.
This beautiful store here in Australia - All Threads - has a large variety of colors
https://www.allthreads.com.au
*Always use a chenille needle when working with metallic threads - the fat little chenille will make a nice big hole in the fabric to clear the way for those prickly metallic fibers.
*Running your metallic threads through a thread conditioner - Thread Heaven being the best - will settle those fibers too.
* Follow the instructions in my book --- Round Spider web - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 88.
1. Stitch your long spokes down. Take your thread under the roses etc to make it look more authentic.
Spider web - FOOLPROOF CRAZY QUILTING - page 88
2. Complete the spider web as desired.
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Another block done!!!!!
A big thank you to those of you who have shared your work and linked back to me or my site - much appreciated.
Till next time.
Regards
Jenny C
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